ROLL ALONG THE VINTAGE RAILS TO SÓLLER
You could drive from Palma to the picturesque little town
of Sóller, less than 20 miles away, in just under an hour. But
it’s far more fun to roll north by rail aboard an old fashioned
wooden train, the Ferrocarril de Sóller, along narrow gauge
tracks that depart from near the Plaza de España in Palma.
The route follows a beautiful mountain route through olive
and citrus groves, through various tunnels and across
multiple bridges. Once you’re out of Palma, the landscapes
become wild as you tunnel through the Sierra de Alfàbia
range and traverse a series of switchbacks through the
mountainous terrain. A highlight comes when you cross the
“Cinc Ponts” viaduct. From the open deck on the back of
the train, you can get a beautiful photograph as it makes a
slight turn to cross the bridge and you catch a glimpse of
the five arched openings below. The route terminates in the
town of Sóller, surrounded by orange and lemon groves,
where you can explore the narrow streets and stop to sip
a fresh orange juice while people watching at one of the
cafes lining the Plaça Constitució, the town’s scenic main
square. If you still have some energy to explore, hop the
historic electric tram (Mallorca’s first, inaugurated in 1913)
for the 20-minute ride to the pretty Port de Sóller, where
more restaurants and shops hug a calm bay.
SPEND THE DAY IN DEIÀ
A tumble of ochre-colored houses, the hilltop enclave
of Deià overlooks Mallorca’s northwest coast about 45
minutes north of Palma. And, if you feel instantly smitten
by the cascade of rooftops down the mountainside and
the striking contrast of earthy greens and browns with
the Mediterranean’s blinding blues, you’re not the first.
Everyone from Andrew Lloyd Webber and the poet Robert
Graves to Bowie and the Beatles have delighted in Deià,
a town of just 700 souls that draws a disproportionate
amount of artists to bask in million-dollar views of the
Serra de Tramuntana mountains and coast. You could kill
the whole afternoon just browsing ceramic and painting
ateliers and chatting with the international community
of artists who find their inspiration here. Make time to
sit at an outdoor table surrounded by mandarin trees
while devouring a plate of paella at Restaurante Sa Vinya,
followed, perhaps, by a dip in the sea at Cala Deià. You can
park your car right near the small cove with a pebbly beach
and get ready to wade out into what might possibly be the
most sparkling aquamarine sea you’ve ever seen.
A VERY VALLDEMOSSA VISIT
It’ll take you just 15 minutes to drive south of Deià to the
village of Valldemossa, a spectacular little spot sandwiched
into a valley that oozes old world charm and was the
wintering grounds of Polish composer Frédéric Chopin
in the 19th century. The town’s name actually comes from
the Moors (it means Musa Valley, named after the village’s
original Moorish landowner), whose efforts at using
terraces to cultivate the steep terrain during the
10th century and onward can still be seen on the
mountainsides. These days, artists, writers and their ilk
are still drawn to Valldemossa. As in Deià, there are many
artist studios to explore, and you could while away the
afternoon just strolling the cobblestone streets and seeing
what the day brings. When you’re feeling peckish, pop
into one of the town’s many bakeries to try Cocas de
Potatas, a spongy and delicious local pastry made using
mashed potatoes. Just outside of town, stop off for views
of the sprawling countryside estate at Son Moragues. The
property dates to the 14th century and was once home
to an Austrian archduke. Today, it produces exquisite
organic olive oil that you can sample during tastings that
include a stroll through the olive groves (be sure to book
in advance). Don’t leave without purchasing a bottle to
bring back with you for when you want to enjoy a taste of
Mallorca on your home plate.
Freelance travel writer Terry Ward is based in Florida but frequently
on the road (or at sea!) to report stories. Her work has been
published by such outlets as Travel Channel, the Washington Post,
Travel+Leisure and Cruise Critic. Visit her website to learn more,
www.terry-ward.com.
by Terry Ward
Often likened to a miniature Barcelona, Mallorca’s
lively capital city of Palma de Mallorca (locals
just call it Palma) could keep you busy enjoying
yourself and basking in the Balearic good life for
days on end. But to delve deeper on this magical
Spanish island that inspired artists and writers like
Joan Miró and Robert Graves — and continues to
be a vacation hot spot for Europeans escaping
cold, northerly climes — hit the road and the rails
to visit three quintessential Mallorcan towns.
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