12
Before my first trip to Barcelona, Gaudi’s startling use of
color and shape struck me as something out of a dream.
Standing at the entryway to Casa Batlló for the first time,
taking in the ground floor staircase that winds up like a
dragon’s spine, that dream came to life before me like
a beautiful fairy tale.
At the Sala Principal (main floor), the sight of its sleek,
swirling ceiling culminating in a glorious light fixture almost
brought me to tears. I couldn’t help but follow in the
footsteps of countless Casa Batlló visitors and position my
camera beneath the multi-layered light fixture and capture
its perfect symmetry. It’s a phenomenon experienced by
generations of witnesses to Gaudi’s genius: genuine,
stop-you-in-your-tracks amazement.
The influence of nature upon Gaudi’s vision was so strong,
proceeding up its six stories felt like journeying through
a living organism. Natural light shone in every corner, an
effect created by the main skylight and two innovative ideas
— placing darkened blue tiles above lighter ones in a pair
of gleaming patios and using larger windows in the lower
floors. The greens and blues of Casa Batlló’s exterior are an
obvious, almost coral-like homage to the marine world, a
quality mimicked during the ascent inside from soft, pearlgray
walls to a perfectly proportioned use of ceramic pieces
and cathedral glass that peaks in a cobalt blue.
Then I stepped into the attic, or what you might call the
belly of the beast. While Gaudi may have been following
Catalan modernistic style, his use of arches — at once
organic and futuristic — gave me the unexpected sensation
of being inside a whale. The roof is similarly singular, its
mosaic tiles creating color synergies that literally sparkled
in sunset’s magic light. A remarkably soothing and calming
quality for something that’s provided Casa Batlló with its
other nickname: The House of the Dragon.
A TEMPLE OF COLOR
All of Gaudi’s treasures in and around Barcelona are worth
exploring, especially the other World Heritage sites: Park
Güell, Palau Güell, Casa Milà-La Pedrera, Casa Vicens, and
the Crypt of the Colònia Güell. And any appreciation of
Gaudi must include a mention of La Sagrada Familia, by far
Barcelona’s most beloved symbol and the crowning glory
of Gaudi’s soaring ambition, even as it remains unfinished
94 years after his death at the age of 73.
When Gaudi took charge of the design and building of
Barcelona’s neo-Gothic basilica a year after the laying of its
foundation stone in 1882, no one could have anticipated the
extent of his radical vision. Two of its three major facades
— the Passion and the Nativity — have been completed,
while construction of the Glory facade remains ongoing.
Eight unbelievably intricate spires currently make for one
of the world’s most photographed structures. Gaudí’s
plans call for ten more, including one that intends to make
Sagrada Família the world’s largest church building.
And even with all of this, it wasn’t the revolutionary
exterior of Gaudi’s colossus that took my breath away.
Much like the moment in the entryway of Casa Batlló, I
was overwhelmed by the light and color of La Sagrada
Familia’s interior. Gaudí is quoted as saying “Sunshine is
the best painter,” and the stunning stained-glass windows
are ingeniously designed to create an ever-changing
symphony of colors that’s one of the most sublime sights
I’ve ever taken in. Gaudi’s love of nature is represented by
majestic columns that stretch like tree branches toward the
ceiling and carvings of wildlife. But it was the transcendent
atmosphere of vivid colors set ablaze by reflected sunlight
that reminded me I was standing inside more than just one
of the world’s most celebrated buildings.
I was in a place of worship.
Janice Davidson is Vice President, Creative & Brand Experience for
Regent Seven Seas Cruises and Editor for EXPLORE Magazine.
She has a deep love of design, art and travel, with a particular
appreciation for the world’s great architecture.
CASA BATLLO
Barcelona